Day 6. Ooop north (Jan and Jony)

Day 6. 125km Cholmondeley to Garstang, via Weaverham, Warrington, Wigan and Preston

Well - a day of surprises! Surprise no 1: that it is possible to pass through the conurbation of Merseyside without even noticing! One minute you are crossing the Manchester Ship canal, the next you are over the Mersey and back out into countryside. Very neat navigating, Jony!

Surprise no 2: that you can get from mid-Cheshire to mid-Lancs without hills.

Surprise no 3: that all the green-route planning is undone on the approach to Preston. I was completely taken aback by the vast network of dual carriageways that we got sucked into - had to weave our way across - once to the left, then back uphill and across to the right, with all the traffic that was churning off the M6. Fairly scary.    

Surprise no 4: the surprise that was not a surprise: that when you finally get in there, Preston is pretty small place, so I still don't understand the need for the huge approaches. The sad bit was seeing what has happened to the economy of the city. The recession has bitten really hard here. Even the big stores in the main shopping streets are charity shops, and the market was just one big car boot sale. It was hard to find anything fresh or healthy to eat for our picnic lunch. Jony spotted a park suitable for a picnic - he has very high standards ;-) - and we finally found a good coffee shop on the lane leading to it.

Surprise no 5: traffic wardens have such good local knowledge and are willing to share it. Have you ever tried asking a postman for directions? They haven't a clue. But ask a traffic warden and they are spot-on every time. "Where's a good place to buy local bread and cheese?' (Shrewsbury - by the castle entrance.) 'Where's the Tourist Info Office?' (Preston - in the Guildhall - left turn by Richer Sounds.) I love it!

So, we are approaching halfway now. Time to psych up for hills, and Jony reckons we should practise tomorrow by detouring through the Lake District. We'll see how smug he is after we have climbed up and over Kirkstone Pass. I'm quaking in my cleats already!

Pun for the day: 'Panama Hatty's' - hairdresser or eaterie? Answers on a straw donkey please.

Jony's Day 6.

I take it all back. The good people of Lancashire are not all thieving scousers who would  have the tyres off your bike before you could say "Bill Shankley". My preconceptions about 'oop north' were swiftly shattered as we crossed the  Manchester Ship Canal at Warrington and were back in open countryside by 10.00am, with narry a clog nor a chip buttie in sight. 

Mind you, the distinct shortage of Costa coffee establishments in particular and the general transition away from affluence on the high street was quickly noticed by your two  hardened former community workers, especially when we stopped for essential provisions in Preston, where the goods on sale in the market would not have disgraced a third-world country. 

Preston? How on earth had we got there, I asked myself. Whatever happened to our picnic under Wigan Pier or the hostel in Shaftbottom under Grot that I was assured we were heading for? 'Oh, I thought this would be so much nicer,' came the mischievous response from the team leader. Last time I follow her!