Don't get excited if I reveal that I'm writing this in the comfort of a first-class British Rail carriage. We're not cheating, though today's ride was definitely the most unpleasant of our trip so far thanks to some solid Scottish rain which shoo'd us out of Inverness and along the A9 towards Cromarty - yes! that Cromarty - which occupies the end of a penninsula/was to be the crossing point en route to today's ride.
The details of the next few hours are hidden by the mists of memory but several cake shops, a down-at-heel hotel and about 75km later, we diverted from our intended northerly route along the east coast of Sutherland, past Dornoch golf club (a favourite of my dad's) and towards Rogart where super-friendly Kate and her husband run a unique sort of hostel in old BR carriages, right behind the existing railway station.
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